Thursday, June 28, 2007

Lokanarkavu - A land where beauty and valor amalgamates


Lokanarkavu temple is situated at a distance of 5 Kms from Vatakara, a heritage township in the district of Calicut. The main deity here is Goddess Durga, with two adjacent shrines dedicated to the gods, Vishnu and Siva. The temple, 1500 years old, has great historical importance as Thacholi Othenan, the legendary martial hero of Kerala, used to worship here every day. As per the ballads, Othenan fought 64 duels and won them easily which was partly due to the blessings of Lokanarkavilamma. When standing in this soil, reddened with the spilled blood of warriors named Chekavas, one could easily get drifted into a trance as an ancient attenuating echo, filled with clanging of swords against shields that sets off sparks and screams, inevidently exhilarates the atmosphere. The pond of the temple also was a major spot described vividly in ballads as it acted as the backdrop when Othenan and Kungi planned their occassional trysts on its moss-ladden crumbled steps.

"Mandala Utsavam", falls in the month of november - december, is the annual festival at the Lokanarkavu Bhagavathy Temple. This is the only temple where a peculiar folk dance called Thacholikkali is presented during festivals. The dance, performed during the festival resembles the martial art, Kalarippayattu. Even this day, all Kalaripayattu martyrs seek the blessings of the deity before their debut combat. This temple is closely associated with the heroes like Aaromal Chekavar, Aringodar, Thacholi chanthu etc. and heroines like Unniarcha, Thumbolarcha, Kungi etc. of Vadakkanpattu.

The festival, locally called as Pooram, is celebrated during the month of March - April. A week-long festival begins with Kodiyettam (flag hoisting) and concludes with Aarattu. Durga Temple was built by Aryans who migrated to this place due to some unknown reason, some 500 years back.They were Brahmins who took up trade as their occupation. The aryan successors of these temple still are considered of prime importance in the temple.They gradually became known as Nairs of Lokanarkavu, and began to accept some of the traditions of local Nairs. But on close examination their customs and beliefs are evidently different from local nair community. It is believed that the goddess travelled with them to Lokanarkavu after disguising herself as a lady.The successors still personify this goddess as their benevolent mother. Often the name of Thacholi Othenan is misquoted with the origin of the temple as he was an ardent devotee of devi. The heroes of Vadakkanpattu worshipped Kali as their family goddess and not in Durga form. The same applies to the local rulers who later claimed Lokanarkavu as their family goddess. All the rulers of Kerala, before the invasion of Aryans,had delectatedtheir Godesses with "Adhama"(inferior) pooja or shaktheya pooja(poojas in which either man or animal was sacrificed). Later Aryans made modifications by replacing human/animal sacrifice with cutting of plantains or performing poojas with tender coconuts and cereals that replace liquor and meat. Unlike the local tradition, Lokanarkavu temple never had any such obscene practises as it was established by Aryans themselves. It is said that many of the godess temples of Kerala are having practices considered as "Madhyama"(Partly inferior and partly superior) type and rarely have them in "Uthama"(Superior) type. Lokanarkavu temple, where poojas are of "Atyuthama"(Highly Superior) type, categorically, will get into the list of a rare sodality.

Three rock-cut caves can be seen in the vicinity of the temple. The marvellous murals and candid carvings here has been of greatest fascination to the visitors. In the "mandala vilakku" festival, the successors of Aryan migrants conduct the 16th "vilakku", which is on the 16th day and is of prime importance. As one enters the temple he must pray to a stage kept in memory of the Arya-Brahmin ancestors who built the temple. The stage is at the right side of the main entrance and one should seek their permission to worship the diety. This is to show that the Lokanarkavu Durga holds these people at the highest esteem and had followed them where ever they went and their happiness is what she enjoys. It is said that the prayers done without considering these ancestors goes unheard.

Wednesday, June 27, 2007

Chittoor - Amma Thiruvadiye Saranam


Chittoor, a major township of Palakkad, was once acted as the boundary of the Cochin province before taking part in the formation of the district and is highly indebted to the Kochi dynasty for the prosperity and ampleness of the region. The deity of the Chittoor Bhagavathy temple is considered as the protectress of the land and is worshipped as Bhadrakali. Precisely, Bhadrakali is different from Durga or Parvathy, although these names are synonymous to each other, for she was born from the flames that emanated off Shiva's third eye, to vanquish the demon named Daruka. The "Bhadrolpathi" comprising of 700 slokas(in 9 chapters), included in the Markandeya Purana, exalts the birth and the purpose of incarnation of Bhadrakali. The saktheya sect considered these verses as sacred as the ones in Devi Mahatmya which is also a "Sapthashathi".

Chitoor temple complex comprises of two shrines, the Chittoor kavu of Ammathiruvadi and pazhayannoor temple, positioned in close propinquity. Pazhayannoor temple is also called as the Moolakshetram(Primordial abode) while Chittoor kavu, although small, is where devi is believed to be at her divine best.The sanctum sanctorum of the temple is usually opened only on tuesdays and fridays, which are considered sacred for worshipping devi. Here priests are Nairs and rituals are performed as per saktheya tradition, while in Pazhayannoor poojas are done by Brahmins. Slaughtering of animals for appeasing the deity which the Nairs had done in olden times imparted a grotesque image for the otherways pristine temple. The poojas here are classified into two :-

1. "Adhama"(inferior) because of the usage of outlandish items such as toddy and meat at times of nivedya(food offered to devi) and also due to the conduction of awful rites such as kaliyattu and thiruvoth.

2." Uthama"(superior) like Udyasthamana pooja and thrikala pooja.

The poojas according to the saktheya system of worship will fall mostly on the quadrant of inferior type.

The idol of Sree Bhagavathy seen inside the sanctum sanctorum is swarthy, enormous and approximately five feet tall with looks similar to the idol at Thirumandhamkunnu. The crowned eight-handed idol, seated crosslegged on a pedestal, possesses sabre, trident, club, head of Konga, discus and conch in six arms and showing varada and abhaya with remaining two palms. The idol was moulded of burned sand. Due to incessant chanthattam(sprinkling of kumkum) the idol is almost abstruse and unfathomable to ponder over other minute specificities. Altogether, one feels a chill rising up through his spine when standing in front of that prodigious idol of devi at 'deeparadhana' as strains of red flashes across at times when hue of a zillion shivering flames blend perfectly with countless scarlet garlands that decorated her.

According to the lores, Chittoor kavu devi destroyed Rajadhirajan(Marava king aka Kongan who once ruled Coimbatore) and his army as he started an attack over poor people of Chittoor to enlarge his dominion. At the end of the battle Devi slayed Konga's head and washed her sword in a river which is called as 'Walayar' nowadays. Devi returned victoriously to the temple and disappeared as she reached south of the moolakshetram. A new temple was built in that very spot where devi had disappeared and came to be called as Chittoorkavu.

The main festival is celebrated in rememberance of the old war between Devi and King in the month of Kumbham every year.