Lord Ayyappa(Dharmasastha), the presiding deity of Sabari Hills is worshipped by millions of devotees around the globe. A visit to Sabarimala brings to the devotees' contentment, spiritual upliftment, prosperity and fulfillment of desires and wishes. The months of Kaartika / Vrishchika, Maargazhi / Dhanu (15 Nov - 15 Jan) are most auspicious for Sabarimala pilgrimage.
Sabarimala (Mount Sabari - about 3000 feet above sea level) is the most favourite and significant temple in Kerala. Pilgrimage to this temple symbolises the journey to heaven. The spiritual journey to Sabarimala is difficult and adventurous. The pilgrims observe severe austerities, wearing rudraksha or tulsi beads strings in the neck and trek up the forest to reach the temple. The feeling of delight and spiritual elevation one gets when devotees have the view of the deity is remarkable and significant. The magnetic charm is so high, it makes any devotee, who undertakes the pilgrimage once, to revisit the shrine every year in quest of spiritual solace.
Sabarimala temple is open to all, irrespective of caste, creed, religion, social status or nationality. The pilgrims undergo 41 days of fast to cleanse the mind. He carries on his head, the holy ghee for the Lord's Abisheka filled in coconut in 'Irumudi'(two compartment cloth bag). The temple is open only to males. Females who visit the shrine should be beyond 50 years or below 10 years of age. This is because the Lord is considered as a Yogi in Sabarimala. The male pilgrims are called 'Ayyappan' and the female pilgrims are called 'Malikappuram'. The shrine is open only during specific period in a year. It is open from Mid- November to Mid-January and for first five days of every Malayalam month.
The secular aspect of the temple is best exemplified by the existence of the "Vavar Nada" in honour of a Muslim saint at the close proximity to the main temple at Sabarimala by the side of Holy 'Pathinettampadi'. The pilgrims worship in this place also. The pilgrims on their sojourn to Sabarimala worship at Erumeli Sree Dharma Sastha Temple and conduct 'Petta Thullal'. They also worship in the mosque at Erumeli as a part of their pilgrimage. Ayyappa cult gives much importance for the secularism and communal harmony and has turn out to be a model for the whole world. Another significant aspect of the pilgrimage is that all the pilgrims whether rich or poor, learned or illiterate holding position or not master or servant are all equal before Lord Ayyappa and all address each other as Ayyappa.
Sree Ayyappa temple at Sabarimala is situated within the Reserve Forest area in Perinad village at Ranni Taluk in Pathanamthitta District in Kerala. The temple is located in a valley surrounded by dense forest hills on all sides. Precisely, Sabarimala is situated in the midst of 18 hills, in a bowl of land blessed with a small rivulet named 'Urakuzhi Theertham'. The area is in the hilly regions east of Kerala bordering Tamilnadu. Elevation above mean sea level is approximately 1260 Metres/4135 Ft. Temples existed in each of the hills surrounding Sabarimala. While functional (and intact temples) exist at many places in surrounding areas like Nilackal, Kalaketi, Inchiparakotta and Karimala, remnants of old temples are visible in the remaining hills.
Lord Sastha, the son of Vishnu and Shiva aka Hariharaputra, is worshipped in a number of shrines across Kerala - at Kulathupuzha where he is worshipped as a child(Balasastha); at Aryankavu as an young man(Yuvasastha); at Achankovil in conjunction with his consorts - Pushkala and Poorna; and at Sabarimala as an ascetic, a celibate meditating in solitude for the benefit of all mankind(Dharmasastha). Ayyappa is the divine incarnation of Dharmasastha and the word Ayyappa is derived from two words - 'Ayya', which stands for Vishnu and 'Appa' for Shiva.
LEGENDS:Story 1:
Once upon a time, the land around the foothills of Himalayas was ruled by demon kings Sthulakarnan and his brother Sumukan.
Sthulakarnan was by nature very cruel and a cannibal, who derived a lot of pleasure in eating the Brahmins and sages who lived in and around the Himalayas. Sthulakarnan had a wife, Sugandini, who was very pious and kind. She was very devoted to Lord Shiva. In due course, Sthulakarnan's wife conceived.
Once when Sthulakarnan was on a hunting expedition, he came across a group of young children who were playing in the field. Sthulakarnan could not resist the temptation of wanting to eat those children. He kidnapped one of the children who was playing and thought to himself that instead of him eating the child, if he could coerce his wife to eat this child, it would make his child in the womb stronger.
However his wife refused and to the contrary requested him to let the child free. In the meanwhile, the child's father who was a sage got to know of his son's plight through his intuition and came to the palace of King Sthulakarnan.
On reaching the palace of King Sthulakarnan, the sage requested him to let go of his child. As the king refused to let the child go, the sage, holding a handful of sacred ash, prayed to Lord Shiva to kill Sthulakarnan and set his child free. The sage then blew the sacred ash towards Sthulakarnan. The sacred ash transformed itself into an arrow and cut Sthulakarnan's head. The saint's child was released and they left to their home.
Sthulakarnan's brother, Sumukan, then took over the responsibility of ruling the kingdom. In due course, Sugandini, Sthulakarnan's wife gave birth to a beautiful baby boy. He was named Kalikeyan.
Kalikeyan grew up to be a brave lad. When he was of age to rule the kingdom, he got to know about the details of his father's death. Angered by the fact that the saint through his magic killed his father and these saints were protected by the Demi-gods, Kalikeyan vowed to strengthen himself and vanquish the saints and the demi-gods. To achieve this end, Kalikeyan went to the forest for penance.
At this time, the North western part of India was being ruled by a demon King Ugraveeryan. There was a popular temple devoted to Goddess Kali in his kingdom. Once while on a hunting expedition, Ugraveeryan came close to the temple of Goddess Kali and wished to visit the temple.
Once he reached the temple, he discovered that a Magician from south of India, through the use of magic, was trying to forcefully take the Goddess to his place, much against her wish. Ugraveeryan got extremely angry and fought with the magician and won over him. According to the advice of Goddess Kali, Ugraveeryan spared the life of the magician, but broke his teeth so that he would never be able to chant the mantras properly and cut his arms to avoid him from being able to do any pooja.
Pleased with the valour of the King, Goddess Kali blessed the king with such valour and success that no other king in heaven or earth will be able to win over him and only a son born to Lord Shiva will be able to vanquish him.
The central part of India was ruled by the King Vijayakesari, who during his hunting expedition used to come towards Kalikeyan's land and apart from killing the animals used to kill the demons who lived in the forests. Annoyed by being picked everytime by King Vijayakesari, the demons of Kalikeyan's country approached King Ugraveeryan and sought his help to fight Vijayakesari. King Ugraveeryan fought with King Vijayakesari, killed him and won the battle.
In the meanwhile the demon king Kalikeyan was very firm in his penance and the creator Lord Brahma appeared before Kalikeyan and granted him a boon. Kalikeyan asked for success over all the worlds and death only by a son born to Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu. Brahma granted his wish. Kalikeyan returned to his kingdom.
Once Kalikeyan returned, he heard about all the help extended to his people by King Ugraveeryan and they became friends. King Kalikeyan appointed King Ugraveeryan as the Commander to his army to fight the Devas.
Bouyed by the boon granted by Lord Brahma, King Kalikeyan fought a battle with the Devas and won over the Devas. Then, King Kalikeyan came to the abode of Lord Brahma and sought his blessings. Then he went to Vaikuntam, the abode of Lord Vishnu. Kalikeyan fought with Lord Vishnu. However, as Kalikeyan had a boon, he won over Lord Vishnu. Lord Vishnu, then gave him a lot of wealth and sent Kalikeyan. Kalikeyan then came to Mount Kailas the abode of Lord Shiva and sought his blessings, after which he returned to his country.
Once back to his country, Kalikeyan started to torture the sages and their guardians in heaven the Devas. Some of the sages who escaped the clutches of King Kalikeyan, came to a place called Tharukavanam, where many other sages were living. These sages discovered that the sages living in Tharukavanam, had come to the conclusion that pain and pleasure are the direct results of one's own action in this as well as previous lives and the Gods cannot do anything about it and hence all prayers were futile. Their philosophy of life spread throughout the world. Because of this mistaken notion, the world reeled under a lot of misery. Saddened by the developments, the sages who came to Tharukavanam, approached Lord Vishnu and prayed that he personally get involved and set things right. Lord Vishnu suggested that all of them approach Lord Shiva to find a solution.
At the same time, all the devas, unable to bear the torture of King Kalikeyan, under the leadership of Lord Indira approached Lord Brahma and sought a solution to their problems. Lord Brahma suggested that all of them approach Lord Shiva to find an end to King Kalikeyan's rule.
The sages with Lord Vishnu and the devas with Lord Brahma approached Lord Shiva with their problems and sought the intervention of Lord Shiva to set things right. Lord Shiva told Lord Vishnu to take the form of Mohini and go to the sages residing in Tharukavanam, while he will go as a Bhikshadana (a nude beggar).
As per directions of Lord Shiva, Lord Vishnu went to Tharukavanam in the form of Mohini, the divine enchantress. The sages in Thirukavanam, were so enamoured by Mohini that they started to follow her.
Lord Shiva in the form of a Bhikshadana approached the wives of these sages who were arrogant in the thought that there were no other women on earth who were as devoted to their husbands as them. However, the moment they saw Lord Shiva in his nude form, they were so lustful that they started to follow him without even noticing that the dress they were wearing had slipped and fallen to the ground.
Lord Shiva slowly made his way to where Lord Vishnu was in the form of Mohini. When Lord Shiva reached the place where the sages were, the sages realized that their wives were enamoured by a Bhikshu. In anger all of them teamed up together and performed a black magic ritual from which came a Tiger, an Axe, a Deer, a snake, the deity of death and disease(apasmara moorthy). The sages commanded each of these to attack Lord Shiva in the form of Bhikshadana. Lord Shiva killed the tiger, skinned it and wore the skin around his hips like a skirt. He held the axe and the deer in his hand, wore the snake as his necklace and pushed the deity of death and disease at his feet and danced over her. The sages finally called upon Lord Agni the deity of fire and got a drum from him which they commanded to attack Lord Shiva. Lord Shiva took the drum in his hands. Having been unsuccessful in all their attempts, the sages were confused. Lord Shiva then took his original form and told the sages that he played this whole drama to make them realize their mistake and that he was not angry with them.
Lord Vishnu in the form of Mohini wanted to see Lord Shiva in the form of Bhikshadana Shiva once again and fell in love with Lord Shiva. Out of their union was born a child Sri Hariharaputra aka Sastha.
Story 2:
The Devas incurred the wrath of sage Durvasavu who cursed them that Devas will also get aged. On the advice of Lord Mahavishnu that this curse could be removed only by administering Amrutha(the divine nectar) taken from Palazhi, the devas took it from the Palazhi, but the Asuras snatched the pot from them. Lord Mahavishnu in the guise of Mohini, went to the Asuras and got back the pot and restored it to the Devas. Later, Lord Shiva went to Vaikunta and approached Lord Mahavishnu with a request that he should see Mohini, the divine seductress, personally. Lord Vishnu decided to fulfill the desire of Lord Shiva. Shiva, on seeing the feminine manifestation of Lord Vishnu, succumbed to her beauty and out of their union, was born a child, who was named Sastha or Hariharaputra who grew at Kailasa along with brothers Ganapathy, Subrahmanya and sister Bhadrakali.
Story 3:
The Rakshasa King Dhanu had two children Ramban and Karamban. According to the advice of their Guru Sukracharya, Ramban and Karamban did penance to beget a male child. Ramban did penance standing in the middle of fire, while Karamban did penance standing in water.
Concerned where his position as the Lord of all Devas will be threatened due to the penance of the brothers, Lord Indira took the form of a crocodile and killed Karamban. On hearing the news of his brother's untimely death, Ramban was dejected and jumped into a lighted pyre. Lord Agni (the fire god) took pity on Ramban and appeared before Ramban and expressed his desire to grant a boon. Ramban asked that he be granted a son, who will be the ruler of the three worlds - the heaven, earth and hell. Lord Agni granted his wish saying that the first lady that Ramban has a physical relationship with will beget him that son.
On the way from the forest to his palace, Ramban saw a she buffalo and had a physical relationship with the she-buffalo. The she-buffalo got pregnant. Once, a he-buffalo saw the she-buffalo and started chasing it. Seeing this Ramban, tried to stop the he-buffalo, but in the bargain got killed. The she-buffalo sought the protection of the Yakshas, who drove the he-buffalo away. On seeing her husband dead, the she-buffalo jumped into the burning pyre of her husband Ramban. Out of the burning pyre came a male child with a buffalo face and was called Mahishasura(Mahisham means buffalo)
Mahishasura captured and ruled the three worlds and tortured the Devas. Unable to bear the torture, the Devas prayed to Parvati (consort of Lord Shiva). Parvati took the form of Durga aka 'Mahishasuramarddini' and killed Mahishasura in a battle. Mahishasura's father Ramban was born as Raktabeeja in his next birth and was killed by Goddess Bhadrakali.
Karamban's daughter Karambika, on hearing the news of her brother Mahishasura's demise sought the advice of her Guru Shukracharya. According to his advice, Karambika went to the forests in the Vindhya hill ranges and did penance to please Lord Brahma. Being pleased with Karambika's devotion, Lord Brahma blessed Karambika with a boon. Karambika asked for the boon of Immortality, which was denied by Lord Brahma saying that every creature that is born must die someday. To this Karambika, sought the boon of being killed only by a son born to Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu and that at will buffalos should emerge from every hair of her body. Lord Brahma granted Karambika's wish. Karambika was then called Mahishi (she-buffalo). Karambika captured and ruled the three worlds and tortured the Devas.
The descendants of Pandya dynasty discarded by Thirumala Naicker, Diwan of Raja Vijayanagar, who was then ruling the Pandya Kingdom, comprising of Madurai,Tirunelveli, Ramananthapuram, were living scattered in places like Valliyur, Tenkasi, Shengottah, Achankovil and Sivagiri. At that time, Pandyas were ruling in many parts of Travancore. The descendants of Pandya dynasty belonging to Chempazhanattu Kovil, living in Sivagiri were given the right to rule the country of Pandalam, by the King of Travancore eight hundreds years ago. King Rajasekara was the direct descendant of this dynasty. King Rajashekara Pandian was an ardent devotee of Shiva and had no children.
Unable to bear the torture of Karambika (Mahishi), the Devas sought refuge in Lord Shiva. Lord Shiva manifested himself as a sage and Hariharaputra as a child and reached the banks of River Pampa.
While Rajashekara Pandian was on a hunting expedition, he came near the banks of River Pampa. He heard the wail of a small child and reached the banks of Pampa. He saw a sage standing beside a child on the banks of the river. The sage instructed the king to take the child and bring him up as his own son. Since, the child had golden chain with a bell, the child was named Manikantan(one who wears bell around his neck).
Rajashekara Pandian was overjoyed and brought the child to his palace.
Manikantan was learning everything from the Raja Guru of Pandalam. The Raja Guru of Pandalam had a male child who was dumb. Manikantan gave speech to the Guru's child in the form of an offering to the Guru (Guru Dakshina). Manikantan was given proper education and training and he grew into a boy well versed in academic lore and martial arts of the time. The Cheerappanchira kalari at Muhamma, in Alappuzha District was responsible for his training in the martial arts. Meanwhile the Queen gave birth to a son named Rajaraja, however the King regarded Manikantan as his elder son and decided to crown him as the heir to the throne.
A man by the name Udayanan, was a constant threat to the Kingdom of Pandalam. Manikandan led the Pandalam army along with Periserry Pillai as the commander and defeated Udayanan.
An arab named Vavar was living in the forests adjoining the kingdom of Pandalam as a Dacoit. Unable to bear the trouble posed by the dacoit, the citizens of the kingdom approached the King of Pandalam to seek help. Manikandan went to the forest and defeated Vavar. Vavar sought forgiveness and refuge. Manikandan forgave Vavar and both of them became good friends.
Apprehensive that the Kingdom will be handed over to the eldest male child (Manikandan), the queen tried many ways to get Manikandan killed. After all her attempts went futile, on the advice of the prime minister, the Queen acted as if she had an incurable headache. The Royal Doctor (Vaidya) was called upon. The Doctor according to the wishes of the queen said that he needs the milk of a tigress to cure this illness. Manikanta promised to get the milk and went into the forest.
However, on his way Manikanda, came to know the atrocities of Mahishi in the Devaloka, he went there and fought a battle with Mahishi. During the conflict, Manikanda threw Mahishi down to earth from devaloka and she fell on the banks of Azhutha River. Manikandan clashed with her near Azhutha river again.
At the end, of the battle between Mahishi and Manikandan at Azhutha River banks, Manikandan climbed up on her chest and danced violently. The impact of his dance was felt on the Earth and Devloka and the Devas were afraid. Mahishi knowing that the divine power dancing on her body was none other than the son of Hari and Haran, prostrated before Manikandan and died. This dance was witnessed by Lord Shiva and Mahavishnu from a place called Kalakatti. (It is said that Leela, daughter of Kavalan, a Maharishi, due to her husband's curse, was born as daughter of Karamban, with the face of a Mahishi and freed herself from the curse and obtained salvation by the grace of Hariharaputra. She is personified in Sabarimala Temple as 'Malikapurathamma' aka Manjambika). The place where Mahishi got her salvation from the curse is today a pond called Bhasmakulam (the pond of ashes) behind the Sabari Malai temple.
Lord Indira took the form of a tiger and the other Devas became tigers and tigeresses and Manikanta started his journey back to the Kingdom of Pandalam. Enroute on a hill a lady named Sabari was doing penance to alleviate her curse of being an old lady. Sabari met Manikanta and offered fruits and woshipped Manikanta on the tiger by cicumambulating him 18 times. Manikanta granted enlightenment to Sabari and said that he will come back to this hill for penance and will have a temple with eighteen steps built for him and hence forth this hill will be called as Sabari Malai (the hill of Sabari, otherwise called the Neeli Malai) in recognition of the penance done by this lady. On reaching the Kingdom of Pandalam, the King, the Queen, the minister and the doctor realised who Manikantan was and sought his forgiveness.
Now Manikanta told the King that the purpose of his incarnation is fulfilled and the King should construct a Dharmasastha temple atop Neelimala with eighteen steps. As per Saint Agasthya's advise, with the help of Viswakarma, King Rajasekara built a shrine on the top of Sabarimala. Manikanta, had made it clear that he would grace only those devotees who offer visit after performing penance for fortyone days keeping themselves isolated from family desires and tastes, leading Brahmacharya and they shall carry the holy irumudi on their heads, after taking a dip in River Pampa, raising slogans and climb the eighteen stairs.
Lord Dharmasastha sent Parasurama to Sabarimala who carved the figure of Lord Dharmasastha and installed it on the day of 'Makarasankranthi', the day on which the Makara Jyothi appears. It is believed that Manikanta is doing penance in Sabarimalai after merging himself into the idol of Dharmasastha and is came to be called as Swami Ayyappa(the one who establishes Dharma - the path of righteousness in the Kaliyuga).
Makara Vilakku is the major event during the season of Sabarimala pilgrimage. The Jewel Casket is carried on head from the ancestral residence of the royal family of Pandalam to the Sannidhanam on a specific day. The person who carries the box dances in a trance that can be believed only by who witnesses it. Thiruvabaranam travels through Valiakoikkal Sastha temple at Pandalam, Ayiroor Puthia Kavu Temple, Perunattil temple, Vlakkai, Nilaikkal Siva temple, Vellachimala, Pamba and Sabari Peedam before reaching at the Sannidhanam around 6 PM on the Makara Jyothi day. Every year a Garuda hovers and flies above the Thiruvabharanam
procession and is quite mystical. On reaching at the Sannidhanam the Melshanthi and Tantri receive the sacred box amidst of deafening slogans. The Thiruvabaranam casket contains a diamond crown, golden bracelets, necklaces and a sword. The priests adorn the Lord with these and perform aarathi. After these ornaments are worn on the Lord the bird circles the temple in the sky three times and disappears. A Star never seen before in the sky appears on the day of 'Makara Jyothi' before the sighting of the Jyoti.
A Jyoti is seen for a little time on the hilltop showing the presence of Lord Ayyappa gracing his devotees.
After the jyothi, in the night Malikappurathuamma, mounted on an elephant comes in a procession to the 'Pathinettampadi' (18 steps ) and returns back to her abode.
Onam, Mandalapooja (Mandalavilakku), Painkuni Uthram (Lord's Birthday) and Vishu are the other festivals celebrated in Sabarimala with pomp and glory.
The important places the pilgrims crosses between Erumeli and Sannidhanam are:
Erumeli :
It is about 65 km from Kottayam. There are shrines for Lord Dharmasastha and Varar Swamy (the Muslim lieutenant of Lord Ayyappa).The first timers to Sabarimala, called Kanniswamy, perform pettatullal. Pettatullal is painting the face with colours and dancing with wooden weapons to make one look odd. The essence of this practice is to give up ones ego and surrender to Lord Ayyappa. They go round the Ayyappan Temple and Varar Shrine and later bathe in the river. Then the temple is visited again to seek authorization from Lord Ayyappa to tread the sacred hill Sabari. Later the pilgrims leave Erumeli under the guidance of their Guru for Sannidhanam.
Perur Thodu :
It is a river about 4 km from Erumeli. Lord Ayyappa rested here during his expedition. It is from here the rise begins. Giving alms here is important. The forest beyond Perur Thodu is Poongavanam (Ayyappa's garden).
Kalaketti :
About 10 km from Perur Thodu is Kalaketti. The legend says that Lord Shiva, Ayyappa's father, came on his ox and tied it here and witnessed Lord Ayyappa killing Mahishi. There is a shrine where the pilgrims light camphor and break coconuts.
Azhutha :Azhutha river, a tributary of Pampa, is about 2 km from Kalaketti. On the far side of the river is the steep Azhutha hill, famous for its arduous track. In the ascent of 2 km of steep climb there is hardly anyone who does not shed tears. At the summit of Azhutha is Kallidumkunnu. The pilgrims drop the pebble taken by them from Azhutha river here. This is done as the mortal remains of Mahishi was cast off here and filled with stones.
Inchipparakota:
The next important place is the Inchipparakota where there is Kotayil Sastha shrine. Pilgrims offer prayers here and break coconuts. From here the pilgrims descent the slippery path carefully. The descent ends at Karimala thodu (canal) with Azhutha hill on one side and Karimala hill on the other. Pilgrims rest here for a while.
Karimala :
Karimala is the abode of elephants which visits the Karimala canal to drink water. Pilgrims light the aazhi (campfire) to protect themselves from wild animals and cold weather. Karimala hill consists of seven levels and is climbed in stages. As the ascent of 5 km is difficult the pilgrims continuously chant saranams. On top of Karimala the terrain is flat suitable for the pilgrims to rest. It is interesting to see the Nazhikkinar - a well within a well with fresh spring like water. There deities of Karimalanthan, Kochukaduthaswami and Karimala Bhagawathi. From here after the exhausting descent, Pampa river is about 5 kms.
Pampa :
Pampa is the most important and holy spot on the way to Sannidhanam. It is here Lord Ayyappa was found by King Rajasekara. Before climbing the Neelimala, devotees pray at the Pamba Ganapathy Temple as well as at the shrines of Sri Rama and Hanuman. The Pampa river is as holy as the Ganges. The Pampa water purifies one from curse and evil.
Pampa Feast :
Pampa Annadhanam (feast) and Pampa Vilakku are important rituals followed at the Pampa bank. Pilgrim groups prepare feast with the provisions taken from the Irumudi of the pilgrims. Thousands of pilgrims are fed at Pampa. When a group of pilgrims are ready to fed the fellow pilgrims they display a large papad outside their cottage. It is usually the Kanniswamy who are fed first, as they are considered to be Lord Ayyappan himself.
Pampa Vilakku :
On sunset pilgrim believe that Lord Ayyappan will be present at the banks of Pampa and the cottages are decorated with lights and candles. Small floats are decorated with lights called Pampa Vilakku are let in the Pampa river.
The next morning after a dip in the cold Pampa river and performing pitrutarpanam (offering to ones departed soul) the pilgrims start their ascent towards the hill Neelimala after worshipping at the temple of Lord Ganapathi, Lord Rama and Lord Hanuman. On the foot of the Neeli hill is the representative of the King of Pandalam. The pilgrims offer their respects to the representative. After seeking the permission of the representative to visit the shrine of Lord Ayyappa they proceed with their journey. From here the Sannidhanam is about 6 km. The neeli hill is as difficult as the Azhutha and Karimala. The top of Neeli hill is called Appachi medu. Here there are two abysses - Appachi kuzhi and Ippachi kuzhi. Kanniswamy throw rice balls here to calm down the evil spirits present around the place. From this point the ground is almost even. Some distance from here is the Sabari peetam.
Sabari Peetam :
This was the Kota where Shri Sabari, in Sri Rama's era, performed Tapas. Pilgrims worship here breaking coconuts, firing crackers and lighting camphor.
Saramkuthi :
Half way between Sabari Peetam and Sannidhanam is Saramkuthi. Kanniswamy leave the wooden arrow they picked from Erumeli here. The holy Patinettampadi (18 steps) is 15 minute walk from Saramkuthi. The Golden steps is such a magnificent sight. Pilgrims chant saranams loudly. After breaking the coconut they climb the 18 steps to have the view of Lord Ayyappa.
Built on a plateau about 40 feet high, the Ayyappa's temple commands a lofty view of the mountains and valleys all around. The ancient temple has been rebuilt after a fire in 1950, consisting of a sanctum sanctorum with a copper-plated roof and four golden finials at the top, two mandapams, the belikalpura which houses the altar, and the flag-staff. Replacing the earlier stone image of the deity is a beautiful idol of Ayyappa in panchaloha, an alloy of five metals, about one and a half feet tall.
There are several explanations regarding the significance of the Patinettampadi, but in all of them, the emphasis is on the number 18. One popular belief is that the first 5 steps signify the five indriyas or senses, the next 8 the ragas, the next 3 the gunas, followed by vidya and avidya. Crossing these would take the devotee closer to self-realisation.
Finally, at the eighteenth step, the devotee is at last face to face with the image of the Lord Ayyappa, or Dharma Sasta. A circumambulation brings him right in front of the sanctum sanctorum, and the pilgrim is filled with a sense of accomplishment and utter peace. But there is one more thing to be done - the ghee abhisheka, or bathing of the idol in ghee. The ghee-filled coconut which the pilgrim has carried in the front section of his irumudi is broken, and the ghee is offered to the deity. Another important abhisheka is of vibhuti, which is also brought by the devotee in his irumudi.
To the south-west of the main temple is the shrine of Lord Ganapati, known as Kannimoola Ganapati. The special offering to this deity is Ganapati homan and there used to be a large 'homakunda' in front of the shrine, which burned constantly, fed by the coconut shells thrown by the devotees, after offering the ghee. As the coconut shells are consumed by the fire, the sins of the devotees are believed to be cleansed. Due to the growing crowds in the temple, the homakunda has now been shifted to a location below the temple.
About a 100 metres away is the shrine of Malikappurathamma. En route to the shrine is the temple tank, Bhasma Kulam, in which hundreds of devotees take a holy bath in memory of the tapaswini Sabari who entered fire to end her mortal life.
Situated on a small hillock, the Malikapurathamma temple houses the shrines of the Devi and Kaduthaswamy. Devotees also worship a trident and lamp here, and offer coconuts. The coconuts are not broken, however, but are just rolled on the ground around the temple.
To the left of this temple are the shrines of the snake god and goddess, Nagaraja and Nagayakshi. Here, tribals beat on drums, play stringed instruments and sing sarppa pattu to protect devotees and their progeny from the harmful effects of snake-bites.
At the foot of the Patinettampadi are the two shrines of Kaduthaswamy and Karuppaswamy, who stand like dwarapalakas or guardians of the holy steps, to ensure that they are not polluted by those who tread on them without fulfilling the rigid austerities required of them. They are also believed to protect the devotees from the evil spirits of the forests. According to legend, Kadutha was a great warrior who helped the Pandalam king defeat the armies of Udayanan and other enemies. When the king came to Sabarimalai to reconstruct the temple, Kadutha came with him to protect him. Ultimately, he became so attached to Ayyappa that he decided to spend the rest of his days with his Lord.
Also near the Patinettampadi is the shrine of the Muslim Vavarswami. The Vavar deity is believed to be as old as the original deity of Ayyappa himself, and records show that the shrine was renovated sometime in 1905. Here, the poojas are conducted by a Muslim priest. There is no distinguishable idol, but a carved stone slab that represents the deity. A green silken cloth is hung across one wall, and there is also an old sword. The special offering here is green pepper. Many devotees also bring a goat to offer to Vavurswami, mainly in the belief that pilgrims accompanied by a goat will reach the temple safely. These goats are later auctioned by the temple authorities.
The layout of the Ayyappa temple is believed to have originated from the specific instructions of the Lord himself, who wanted Malikappurathamma, on his left a few yards from Sannidhanam, and his trusted lieutenants Vavar and Kadutha to be positioned as his guards at the foot of the holy 18 steps.
Role of Guruswamy:- The role of the Guru is significant in the Ayyappa cult. The Guruswamy is usually an elderly person who has undertaken pilgrimage to Sabarimala not less than seven consecutive years in the traditional long route and had view of Makara Jyothi. The devotees treat the Guruswamy as Ayyappan himself. It is important that pilgrims gain knowledge from the Guru on all the aspect of the pilgrimage. One should serve the Guru physically, mentally and verbally.
The pilgrims should give the due respect and reverence the Guru deserves. All instructions of the Guru should be carried out without fail. The Guru will enlighten the Sishyas of the austerities to be followed. He will teach them the slokas and way to perform poojas and bhajans. He shall prepare them for the pilgrimage mentally and physically. He will lead the pilgrims safely and comfortably to Sabarimala.
Role of Irumudi:- lrumudi is the only travelling kit which a pilgrim carries on his head during the pilgrimage. Only those who observe fasting for 41 days are allowed to carry it. Without the Irumudi one is not allowed to step onto the holy 18 steps at the Sannidhanam.
This bag is in two compartments - the Munmudi (the front part) and the Pinmudi (the back part) & the opening at centre. The front portion is reserved for keeping all the puja articles and offerings to the deity while the rear part is meant to hold the pilgrims personal requirements for the journey.
Front portion contains Mudra bags, consisting of 2 - 3 in numbers - one for the GheeCoconut and the other two for the remaining offerings. Items for Vazhipadu (offering) at the Sannidhanam that is kept in the front compartment of the Irumudi are as under:
1. Coconut filled with ghee for Abhishekam (bathing the idol of the Lord)
2. Coconut 2 to 4 nos.
3. Beetel leaves, Beetel Nut, coins for offering
4. Jaggery (achuvellam), Cashew, Raisins, Dry ginger, Poha (thin & thick variety)
5. Cardamoms, Dates, Honey, Avil ( beaten rice)
6. Dried turmeric tubers, Turmeric powder, Blouse piece, Kumkum, Vibhooti, Sandal paste, Camphor, Agarbathi (Incense stick), Rosewater, Lemon, Rice for offering.
1. Coconut for ghee Abhishekam : Well before the Kettunira time, select a medium size coconut. Clean and polish the outer shell using a polishing paper. With a pointed instrument, open one eye of the coconut and empty the coconut water. Close it with a cork of correct size. The coconut is now in readiness for the Kettunira.
2. Coconuts - one each to be broken at Erumeli, Sharam Kutti and two for Padinettampadi (the sacred 18 steps - once while climbing up for Shasta Darshan with the Irumudi and 2nd while returning after the worship
3. Part of the jaggery, cashew, raisin, cardamom, honey and dates can be used to make Panchamrutam for the Nivedya; part of the jaggery, dry ginger and cardamom can be used for preparing 'Panagam' as Nivedya.
Photo: Golden Crown costs over 26 lakhs rupees offered for Lord Sabareesa (18/08/2012)
