Thiruvattar - At the 'Vaikuntam of the South'

Adikesava Perumal Temple, aka Adikesavar Temple, is an ancient shrine situated at Thiruvattar, in erstwhile Travancore and now in Kanyakumari District of Tamil Nadu. The temple is located just 6 kms away from Marthandam, a town on the Kanyakumari-Trivandrum National Highway(NH 47). The temple is an important center of worship in the state and is referred to as 'Aadi Anantham' and 'Dakshina Vaikuntam'(Vaikuntam of the south). The Sri Adikesavaperumal Temple is one of the 108 Divya Deshams (holy shrines) of Lord Vishnu. It is one of the 13 Malanaadu(a particular geographical and cultural area in which Kerala and some nearby places belong to) shrines which are part of 108 Divya Deshams. After the reorganization of the states in 1956, 11 of those shrines remained in Kerala while 2 of them became part of Tamilnadu.

The temple enshrine Adikesava Perumal (Lord Vishnu) as the presiding deity along with Goddess Maragatavalli. The deity is represented as an imposing image of Lord Vishnu in a reclining posture on Adisesha and is facing west. Adikesava Perumal is viewed through three openings in the sanctum.

Most noteworthy feature of the temple is that the rays of the setting sun illuminate the face of the deity. Also, on the 3rd and the 4th days of the Tamil month of Purattasi and from the 3rd to the 8th day of the Tamil month of Painguni the sun's rays fall on the feet of the deity. Adikesava Perumal Temple has been glorified by a decade of 11 verses composed by the great poet Nammalwar in the first millennium. In pasurams, Nammalvar refers Thiruvattar as 'Valamikka vattaru'. Mahavishnu is refered as Adikesava Perumal and Thayar (Mahalakshmi) as Maragadhavalli Naachiyaar.

The temple is built in Kerala style of architecture and the worship rules are also same as that of Kerala. The temple features many carvings in stones and wood. Though the deity is installed facing west, the main entrance of the temple is on the east. The temple also has shrines dedicated to Krishna, Venkatachalapathi, Ayyappa, Devi etc. The main flag-mast, copper-plated and renovated by His Highness Sri Moolam Thirunal (1071 ME), could be seen on the center of the western corridor.

Adhikesava Perumal Temple features several inscriptions dating back to the period of Rajendra Chola in early 11th century CE. The Sreebali corridor (Sheevelippura) around the sanctum boasts 224 granite pillars, each one of it carries sculptured images of Deepalakshmi. Deepalakshmi images are many but none resembles the other. The Ottakkal Mandapam (Single stoned Platform) made of a single stone, 3 feet thick, is a marvel and is seen before the main sanctum. The temple is also renowned for its murals. As one enters into the Chitrasabha mandapam, he could see exquisite sculptures such as Lakshmana, Kankalanathan, Patanjalithandavar and Sanghuchoodan on the left and Indrajith, Muraleedharan, Parasakthi and Kalabhairava on the right. In the Udaya Marthanda Mandapam(Ottakkal Mandapam), one could see sculptures of Rathi and Manmatha as well as on the top there are carvings of Ganapathi's marriage, Churning of Palazhi, Mahabharatha and an array of figures of Gods. Many of the murals are faded due to age and lack of proper care. The roof of the sanctum is copper-plated with five golden pots(thazhikakudam).

Inside the sanctum, the recumbent lord measuring 18 feet could be seen fully if viewed through all the three doors. The holy idol is made of 'Kadusarkkara Yoga' and 16008 Salagramas. It is said that Lord Sri Adikesava faces west, looking at Sri Padmanabha of Trivandrum. The left hand is stretched while the right hand shows Yogamudra. The navel lotus, in which Brahma is seated, is absent. There is a Shiva Linga seen close to the feet of the idol of Adikesava Perumal while in Padmanabha Swamy Temple, Shiva Linga is seen below the right hand of Vishnu. One could also see idols of Lakshmi devi and Bhoomi devi inside the sanctum.

Thiruvattar Adikesava temple is older than Sree Padmanabha Swamy Temple of Trivandrum by about 1084 years. The style and the architechture of this temple is taken as the sample for the construction of the Padmanabha Swamy Temple at Thiruvananthapuram. There is also a small shrine for Lord Lakshmi Narasimha near the river, opposite to the Adikesava Perumal Temple.

Legend says that in Tretha Yuga, Lord Brahma conducted a Yajna at Kanakagiri(Ponmana) for removing the sufferings of all living beings and demi-gods. Since Brahama has done it with an egoistic mind, Lord Vishnu became displeased. The chanting of the mantras went wrong and as a result of this two demons named Keshan and Keshi arose from the the Yajna fire. They asked Brahma to give them food. Brahma allowed them to go out and eat whatever they wanted. They were also blessed with eternal life. They started living in Malaya mountain. They also killed a great monkey named Kautilya.

One day Keshi visited Devaloka aka Indrapuri and there she saw Indra. She fell in love with him and commanded Indra to marry her. Indra refused this proposal and Keshi tried to take him by force. When it failed, she returned to Malaya mountain and told Keshan about this. Infuriated Keshan went straight to Devaloka and challenged Indra for a duel. A fierce battle was set off which lasted for seven days and seven nights. Finally, Indra had no other choice but to surrender. Indra and along with him most of the celestial maidens were brought to Malaya mountain. Maidens were made to work as Keshi's female servants.

Demi-gods went to Vaikunta and pleaded to Lord Vishnu to put an end to their suffering. Lord Vishnu pacified them by saying that he would tame Keshan within no time. But, the fight between Keshan and Vishnu lasted for a period of seven years. Since Keshan could not be killed, Vishnu disappeared. Lord Vishnu prayed to Parasakthi for help. Parasakthi appeared before Lord Vishnu and told him that Keshan is blessed with immortality. Parasakthi told Vishnu to immobilize the demon by tying him firmly beneath Adi Sesha, the serpent bed of Lord Vishnu and lie upon it in 'Yoga Nidra', The Cosmic Repose.

The fate of the Keshan was known to Keshi. She immediately started with her friend 'Kotha' in the form of two rivers in search of Keshan. Keshi reached 'Sudhapushkarani' where she met a sage who showed her the way to 'Adidamavibinam'. At 'Muvattumugam' both rivers met there, Lord Vishnu appeared there and cursed the rivers that they won't go back. They plead for redemption from the curse. Lord acceded to their plea, took a bath their and grand absolution. Both rivers merged together and flowed to the Ocean with a new name, Thamravarni. In memory of this Aarattu is conducted on the last month of Meenam. The river 'Parali' goes around Adidamavibinam and hence the place is called as Vattar or Thiruvattar.

Although Keshan was rendered powerless, his 12 hands began to harm people living around. In order to stop this, Lord Adikesava installed 12 shivalingas on the 12 palms of Keshan. These lingas are located at Thirumala, Thirukurichi, Thripparappu, Thirunandikkara, Ponmana, Pannipakam, Kalkulam, Melancodu, Thiruvithamcodu, Thirupanniyodu, Thirunattalam and Thiruvithaicodu. These 12 Shiva temples are the ones of Shivalaya Pilgrimage aka Shivalaya Ottam (a typical traditional run through all the 12 Shiva temples).

In the year 855ME, one Muslim brigand by the name Mugilkhan(aka Mukilan) plundered many temples in Vanchinadu. His attempt to plunder Sri Padmanabha Swamy temple, Trivandrum was defeated by the Pattani's of Manacaud. Then he came to Thiruvattar and camped at a place which later was known as 'Mugilankhara'. The then ruler Her Highness Umayamma Rani came to know about Mugilkhan's move for a grand theft at Adikesava Temple. She sought the help of Kottayam Kerala Varma, who came with a small army. As the army is too small for a fight with Mugilkhan, he prayed to Adikesava Perumal for help. At that time, a Muslim Saint named Peer Mohammed came to Thiruvattar. With his sorcery, he created a bunch of hornets(a type of wasp) which went inside the sanctum. Kottayam Kerala Varma was praying to Adikesava all this time. Soon the doors of the sanctum opened by itself and hornets came through it in large numbers. From there they proceeded to the camp of Mugilkhan and destroyed him as well as his entire crew. Hornets came back to the temple and then to the place of Peer Mohammed and disappeared. In recognition to this, King offered him land near Thuckalay for his stay.

In AD 1740, Nawab of Arcot reached Vanchinadu and plundered several temples. He took away the Archana idol of Thiruvattar temple. Suddenly, they started encountering strange problems. One priest 'Kaval Azhathi' went to them and requested to return back the idol. They gave it back and on the way to the temple, priest placed the idol at 'Thaliyal' before going for a bath. On return after bath, priest found that idol got rooted and Nawab had to do purification ceremonies at the temple as a penance. He also constructed a Mandapam and instituted a pooja which came to be known as 'Thiru Allah Pooja'. This pooja is done for 21 days in an year. He also completed the construction of the southern Balikkalpura and donated a golden platter and certain ornaments which is used for the daily Sribali.

In Dwapara Yuga, a brahmin called 'Gomayasi' was living with his wife near 'Mathur Punyam'. They prayed to Vishnu for a child and his wife gave birth to a divine one. They continued their penance whole day and the child was being laid on the sand named Kadalivana(plantain forest). The seven goddesses called sapthakanyakas who came to take bath at 'Sudhapushkarani' took the baby in their hands and nurtured it. Demi-Gods didn't like it and ordered the goddesses not to come back to Devaloka until the end of Kaliyuga. Once a celestial man named 'Suchivritan' met the small boy and asked about his parents. Boy pointed his finger towards one of the plantain trees of Kadalivana. Suchivritan started making fun of that child. Boy became grief strickenn and embraced the plantain. Suddenly, Lord Vishnu appeared in front of them with his consort. Lord Vishnu took the boy to the temple and could be seen now as seated facing north, with folded hands, in the direction of the Lord's feet. He is named as Kaadaleyan.

The image of Garuda in this temple is made of gold inlaid with precious stones and is taken out in procession in the tamil months of Vaikasi and Alppasi. There are two annual festivals in this temple, one is in Meenam and the other is in Thulam. Both are of 10 days duration. Kathakali, the artform of Kerala, is played almost on all days of the festival. The festival ends with Aarattu for which a representative of the King from the Kowdiar Palace will also be present. 'Swarga Vathil Ekadashi' is also considered important in this temple.

Trivia of the day -

1. Thaayaar - Maragadavalli Naachiyaar.

2. Theertham - Kadalvaai Theertham, Vattaaru, Raama Theertham.

3. Mangalasasanam - Nammalwar -> 3722-3732(total of 11 Paasurams).

4. Vimanam - Asthanga Vimanam

5. Pratyaksham - Parasurama, Chandra

6. Moolavar, Direction and Posture - Adikesavaperumal who is gound in 'Kidantha Thirukkolam' in 'Bhujanga shayanam' facing his 'thirumugham' along the western direction.

Thiruvaloor - Shiva who received the curse of Surya Kaladi

Thiruvaloor Shiva temple is located at Alangadu, nearly five kilometers away from Alwaye in the Ernakulam district. This ancient Shiva temple is connected with Ramayana and is believed that Jadayu's tail ('Vaal' in Malayalam) had fallen in this place during the confrontation with Ravana. But the temple is more famous for its association with the legend of Surya Kaladi. It is one of the 108 Shiva temples consecrated by Lord Parasurama.

According to the legend, Surya Kaladi Namboodiri had breathed his last here, due to the curse of a Gandharva and his spouse, Yakshi. Surya Kaladi burnt Yakshi for killing his father and her hubby Gandharva for infecting the queen of Pallibanaperumal, the ruler of Kerala. Before succumbing to fire, they cursed Surya Kaladi that he would die in an atrocious manner and his days are numbered. As a chance to absolve Namboodiri of the curse, his rivals told that if Surya Kaladi could pray at Thiruvalur temple on the 12th day, he would be saved.

However, at the forenoon of the 12th day, temple priests heard a divine voice(Ashareeri) from the Thiruvalur Srikovil which ordered them to perform the Athazha Pooja (Final rite of the temple which is usually performed at night) at noon itself and to close the temple soon after that. In the afternoon of the 12th day, Surya Kalady arrived at Thiruvalur. However, he couldn't offer his worship to Thiruvaloorappan as the doors of the sanctum remain closed all through that day. The curse came true and Surya Kaladi had a terrible end. A typical urinary irritation started which soon aggravated within no time. In intense pain he had jumped up and down many a time and had bitten on the wooden roof of the temple. His teeth-marks on the roof and foot-marks on the floor were clearly visible on that very place before the recent renovation of the temple.

While writhing in that pathetic condition, Surya Kaladi cursed the lord of the temple, Thiruvaloorappan for his unfavorable attitude to the devotee. Namboodiri said that the temple would lose its divinity and will remain in that state for a long time. Namboodiri also said that the temple will regain its divinity only after the wilting of the Chempaka tree which stood on the north side of the temple. Due to the curse of Surya Kaladi, during the Malayalam year 1050-1055, the Srikovil was struck with a startling thunderbolt. The walls of the Srikovil and Garbhagriha was cracked. Even the top of the Shiva Linga was impaired.

Many years flew by and the Chempaka tree finally wilted and Thiruvaloorappan was absolved of the curse of Surya Kaladi. Another rarity of the temple is that Thiruvaloorappan is not accompanied by any of the sub-deities (other than Ganapathi) that we usually see in any other Shiva shrine across Kerala. When standing in front of the Srikovil, one would surely feel that he is before Mount Kailasa where Lord Shiva meditates in Padmasana. The temple is amply decorated with a number of carvings both in wood and in stone. The ceilings, pillars and walls are all embellished with marvelous figures. The story of Markandeya on the Namaskara Mandapa and the Pradosha Shiva on the West entrance are simply astounding.

There is a Rudraksha tree in the temple precincts with full of Rudraksha seeds, which is a very rare sight. The Shiva Linga in the temple is Agni Linga and deity faces towards South. Generally, South faced Shiva is worshipped as Dakshinamurthy and worshipping the deity will give abundant knowledge.

Thirunakkara - Kohinoor of Kottayam

 Thirunakkara Shiva temple is situated at the heart of the city of Kottayam and is renowned as 'The Kohinoor of Kottayam'. The presiding deity of the temple is Lord Shiva. Lord Shiva here is considered as the family deity of erstwhile Thekkumkoor Kingdom comprised of Changanassery, Kanjirappally, Thiruvalla and Kottayam. In AD 1750, His Highness Marthanda Varma of Travancore conquered Thekkumkoor Kingdom and attached it to Travancore.

According to some, there are only two Shiva shrines in Kottayam, consecrated by Lord Parasurama, which are Thirunakkara Shiva temple(swayambhoo Linga idol) and Talikkotta Shiva temple(vigraha idol). Once upon a time, Talikkotta was the capital of Thekkumkoor kingdom and Talikkotta Shiva was the deity which they had worshiped. Emperor of Thekkumkoor built the Thirunakkara temple soon after shifting the headquarters from Talikkotta to Nattassery.

Inside the Garbagriha of the main rectangular Srikovil, Lord Shiva faces East. The roof of the sanctum is covered with copper. The Swayambhoo Shiva Linga is small and the top of it is uneven. The Shiva linga is covered permanently with a golden 'Golaka' in order to avoid further damages and will be removed only at the time of 'Ashtabandha Kalasa'. Eyes,nose and crescent are carved on to this Golaka. The idol is magnificently covered with garlands made of flowers and Vilwa leaves. On the left side of the Shiva Linga, there is a panchaloha idol of Sri Parvathi. The sub-deities of the temple are Ganapathy, Sastha, Muruga, Vadakumnathan, Durga and Brahmarakshassu. Ganapathy and Ayyappa faces east. There is a mugha mandapam in front of the shrine of Vadakumnathan. Brahmarakshassu is the only deity that faces west.

According to the lores, once there was a Thekkumkoor King who was an ardent devotee of Vadakumnathan. He made a visit to Sri Vadakumnatha temple every month. When he became old, his monthly travel to Trichur turned out to be a herculean task and had to be stopped. He was very sad due to this and cried fervently to his Lord to take his life. Having pleased by the King's devotion, Vadakumnathan decided to stay near to the home of his devotee. Eventually, Vadakumnathan appeared in King's dream and told him that he would come to 'Nakkarakunnu' in the form of a swayambhoo linga and as a symbol of his divine occurrence, King would be able see an ox in the front and a white thechi plant in the back of the Linga. Thus, Vadakumnathan aka the Lord of the North, manifested at Kottayam. Nandi aka Ox of Shiva is worshipped here as a sub-deity. The tantric rights of the temple are vested with Tharananelloor Mana.

On the four main entrances, one could see large Gopurams. The golden flag-mast of the temple is virtually a treat for the eyes. There is a Koothambalam on the south side of the temple. One could see some fabulous mural works, carvings and a multitude of sculptures in front of the Balikkalpura and Srikovil. Some portraits that worth a watch are Sastha on the southern wall, incarnation of Narasimha on the western wall, Tripurasundari's procession, Parvathi's penance, Brahma on the northern wall, Durga, churning of the Ocean of Milk, playing of the Flute by Krishna etc. Some major events of the Ramayana are carved on to the walls of the Koothambalam.

There are three festivals celebrated in this temple - in Thulam(six days with Avittam Aarattu), Meenam and Mithunam(eight days with Uthrittathi Aarattu). The festival that falls in the month of Meenam is considered as the main festival. It usually lasts for a period of ten days.