Thursday, July 12, 2012

Mannarasala - Abode of Serpent Gods


 Mannarasala Sree Nagaraja Temple is a very ancient and globally accalaimed centre of pilgrimage for haindavites to worship serpent gods and is located about three kilometers to the north-east of the bus station in NH 47 at Haripad, in Alappuzha district of Kerala. The temple is nestled in a forest glade, like Pambumekadu, Vettikottu, Karippal etc. The Mannarasala Temple has over 30,000 images of snakes along the paths and among the trees, and is the largest such temple in Kerala. Women seeking fertility come to worship here, and upon the birth of their child come to hold thanksgiving ceremonies here, often bringing new snake images as offerings.A special turmeric paste which is available at the temple is credited with curative powers.

Though the legends related to the origin of a place cannot be deemed as its history, the story on the evolution of Mannarasala as the supreme place of worship of the serpent Gods is associated with Parasurama, the creator of Kerala.


The history of Mannarasala has been mentioned in the 'Mandara Salodayam' Sanskrit poem written by Mannarasala M.G.Narayanan Nampoodiri of the sacred family, who wrote it on the basis of reliable accounts and legends traditionally handed down and in the light of old books available with the temple. Since the poem was incomplete, the history narrated here is from the book 'The Serpent Temple Mannarasala', published by Mr.N.Jayadevan of Manasa Publications (Translated to English by the renowned scholar Dr.Ayyappa Panikker). This book is also based on the advice and instructions received from the former Great Mother, and in accordance with the other members of the family as well as the old records examined for the purpose.



Sree Parasurama decided to seek release from the sin of killing the Kshathrias. He approached the holy Rishis. They suggested that he should make a gift of a land of his own to the Brahmins. Parasurama, the son of Bhrigu, propitiated Varuna Deva (the Lord of the Seas) to get some land for himself. He threw into the sea the axe which Lord Shiva had given him with his blessings. Thus he raised the land from the sea and gave it as a gift to the Brahmins according to the rules. This land came to be known as Kerala. That piece of land was not habitable because of the salinity. Not even vegetables grew there. People began to leave the place. Bharghavarama was pained at this. He undertook penance to please Lord Siva, who advised him that the objective could be realized only if the flaming poison of the serpents was spread everywhere and that the only means of doing that was the worship of Nagaraja. He set out with his disciples in search of a deserted jungle in order to please Nagaraja who was inaccessible and beyond anybody's understanding. He found a suitable place near the seashore in the southern part of Kerala. Satisfied with having found a proper place for the realization of his cherished dream, the great Rishi constructed a Thirthasthala for the performance of penance. Bharghavarama, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, had to undertake very severe penance.




Nagaraja, who was pleased, appeared before Parasurama, willing to grant him his desire. According to the poem by Mannarasala M.G.Narayanan Namboodiri, the Nagaraja made his appearance as if, "The unspeakable splendor of millions of moons! The bright magnificence of emeralds stuck to the hoods. Golden jewels made attractive by miraculous embroidery! Lotus feet worshipped by crowds of Gods! Brilliant beauty of form, full of youthfulness!".

Parasurama prostrated at the lotus feet of Nagaraja and prayed to realize his objective. Nagaraja granted his request with great pleasure. Ferocious serpents arrived at the spot at once to spread the flaming poison. Because of the percolation of poison, the land of Kerala was desalinated, to become habitable with envious greenery. Parasurama then requested the Lord to bless the land forever with his eternal presence, and that was also accepted by the kindly-disposed Nagaraja.



 
At a very auspicious moment Bhargavarama, the supreme devotee, installed, according to Vedic rites, Nagaraja, who is Brahma, Vishnu and Siva in one in the 'Thirthasthala' (Hall of pilgrimage) filled with Mandara trees, the place now known as Mannarasala. (The installed deity here represents Anantha (Vishnu swaroopa) and Vasuki (Shiva swaroopa). The installations of Sarpayakshi, Nagayakshi and Nagachamundi, the Naga deities, as well as of their associates were conducted in the proper places with the proper rituals. Parasurama performed to the accompaniment of Vedic recitation and singing of Sama, Abhishekam, Alankaram, Neivedyasamarpanam, Neeranjanam, Sarpabali and other rites pleasing to the serpents and thereby made all the serpents happy.

Parasurama brought learned people from other religions; installed Durga and other deities in different places; appointed Brahmins who were Thanthric experts for performing poojas; nominated Kshathrias, peasants and the Ashtavaidyas who were supreme among the physicians; thus he brought Kerala, filled with beautiful vegetation and to prosperity. After giving important instructions to be followed to preserve the sanctity of the place, Parasurama left to do tapas on Mahendra Mountains.




 
Many generations passed by. The family fell into the grief of childlessness. Vasudeva and Sreedevi were the sad couple who had to bear that heavy load of sorrow, who resolutely worshipped Nagaraja to allay their grief. It was about this time that unexpectedly fire broke out in the jungle around the dwelling place of Nagaraja and burnt down the jungle. The serpents were tortured by the flames, forcing them to hide in their pits with great difficulty.

Vasudeva and Sreedevi looked after the serpents, who had their hoods charred, bodies half-burnt, and fainting from time to time, falling down and crawling along. They gently fanned them with fans made of sweet-scented grass and poured ghee mixed with honey and oil on the wounds; cooled their melted bodies with sandalwood ointment; and comforted them. They put them at the foot of banyan trees. They performed purification ceremonies and consecrated the pits; and were put up in special places under the shade of deodar trees and in Chitrakudas.

The couple performed abhisheka with thirtha like Panchagavya (a holy mixture of five items from the cow's milk, curd, butter, urine and dung); observed elaborate poojas according to rules with areca nut flower bunches, fragrant flowers and water, incense etc., Nivedyam with melted butter (ghee), milk, payasam with molasses, rice powder, turmeric powder, coconut juice, Kadali fruit, cow's milk, all mixed together in the proper form as Nurum Palum, equivalent to the elixir of life. They offered serpent deities with great devotion, appam, aval (beaten rice or rice wafers), tender coconut etc. They chanted vedic mantras, performed circumambulation and performed all kinds of poojas to restore those crowds of serpents to full health (It is also believed that the place got the name 'Mannarasala' because of this as 'Mannu' (Sand) 'Aaruka' (cooling after heavily burnt) 'Sala' (place) - 'Mannu aariya sala' - the place which got cooled after it is heavily burnt).

The omnipresent and omnipotent Nagaraja was greatly pleased with their continuous penance and the love shown to his associates; Nagaraja made himself visible to the couple and blessed them that he would incarnate on the earth as their beloved son. The boon came true. The Brahmin lady became pregnant and gave birth to five-hooded serpent-child as well as a human child. The two brothers grew up together. Initiation ceremonies and Vedic education were carried out at the proper time in the traditional style. Nagaraja instructed the younger brother to enter into matrimony for the perpetual reservation of the holy family and he obeyed it. When the five-hooded Nagaraja realized that the objectives of his incarnation were realized, he informed the Holy Mother that henceforth he would live at this Illam by entering into Samadhi to bless the devotees. Then he suggested certain inviolable rituals and rules for offering worship and then went into the immaculate cellar and vanished.
 

(It is believed that even today that five-hooded Nagaraja stays in the cellar for the abound prosperity of his dependents. The members of the household always refer to him with great respect and devotion as "Muthassan' Grand father). The jungle close by is the exclusive preserve for his unobstructed peregrinations (Appoppan Kavu - Grandfathers' Grove).

Legends

The Thanni Tree

In the light of experience, many devotees who have experienced and heard about the miraculous powers of the serpents and the presiding deities here, tell many stories about Mannarasala temple.

The divine serpents
 
It is not a rare thing to see the same serpent appear in the same location for a number of days in the temple premises. On the steps of the gatehouse, on the hedgerows, among the creepers; those who perform worship in the temple can stand very close at any time and pray.

Yellow snakes
 
On one occasion, about six decades ago, a fierce yellow serpent started dancing on the eastern bank of the holy pond near the Appooppan Kavu carrying an evil snake in its mouth. Then it vomited the evil snake and released it. The serpent raised its hood either out of fear or out of a desire of revenge. The fierce snake with a sense of humour swallowed that cobra again. The late Valia Amma came to know about it. She came to the spot with tears in her eyes and spoke a few words. The serpent did not budge. This drama lasted for half an hour. Amma became sad. With the chanting of hymns, she prayed for the release of the cobra. No more delay, the serpent left the cobra, bent down its head and went straight into the Appooppan Kavu, as if nothing had happened. The nature of the yellow snakes of Appoppan Kavu is beyond description, and is wonderful. 


The beliefs and rituals associated with the Mannarasala temple are different from most other temples, and this is one rare temples where the puja pattern is headed by a Brahmin lady. Legends say that when the Muthassan left for the Cellar (More details in History), he had given certain rights and instructions to his mother. He instructed that 'Mother herself must offer me worship. On certain special days men may be given a chance to worship. After Mother's time, the senior-most Brahmin lady in the family will have the status of the Mother. From the time the mother assumes this high position Mother should live as a brahmacharini and observe penance.

The former Valia Amma, who attained Samadhi on 24th October 1993, had a long and expert experience in Nagapooja, and was a great hermitess; a brahmacharini. When she attained Samadhi at the age of 91, she had completed many decades as Valia Amma. She, Savitri Antharjanam, was born on Anizham Star in the Month of Tulam 1079, and her wedding was on 18th of Chingam 1092. She assumed the position of Valia Amma on 28th Tulam 1093 and started Nagaraja pooja on 23rd Makaram 1094. Valia Amma of today is Uma Devi Antharjanam, and she was consecrated as the Valia Amma on 24th October  1993, when she was 64 years old. She is also the wife of the late Shri. M.G.Narayanan Namboothiri.


Main offerings of Mannarasala Nagaraja Temple are:

For wealth and prosperity: A pot filled with gold or a gold pot filled with other things.
For education, prosperity and fame: Silk grains, divine ornaments.
For recovering health: Salt
For protection from poison: Turmeric
For curing diseases: Pepper, mustard, green peas etc.
For protection from damage: Serpent cave made of gold etc., images of serpents' eggs, tree, earth etc.,
For long life: Melted butter (ghee)
For getting whatever one wants: Milk, ripe kadalai fruit, nilavarapayasam.
For having child: A vessel named Uruli made of brass, bronze etc. for performing 'Nurum Palum'.
 
Uruli Kamazhthu in Nilavara (offering of traditional bronze vessel) is one of the most popular devotee offering in Mannarasala. Known for begetting children to couples, thousands of people come here to carry out this sacred and rare offering to Nagaraja. According to temple sources, there are certain strict rituals to be followed for this offering. It is advisable only for married couples who have not been able to have children for years, since their marriage.

The couple should come to the temple and pray to the God for his blessings. Receipts for the offering have to be taken from the administration office. Offering includes a bronze Uruli that can be used to cook at least a score of rice, a Nilavilakku (bronze lamp), garland etc. In the presence of the temple authorities, the couples should offer the Uruli with its mouth upwards in front of the Nagaraja shrine after three circumambulations to the temple with due prayers. An offering have to be given to Sarpayakshi as well. After Pooja, Valiamma will take the Uruli to Nilavara and it will be kept there with its mouth downward, which will be opened only after the couples get a child. Expenses for this offering are charted in a way to offer at least two Kadali fruits every day to Nagaraja, for about one year.

Once the couples are blessed with child, they should come to the temple with the child for prayers. They should submit either silver cradle or a miniature baby in gold or a miniature divine serpent in gold to the Nagaraja, in accordance to their financial abilities. Then Valiamma will open their Uruli kept in the Nilavara after due prayers.

According to temple sources, devotees can source all that are required for this offering from the temple administration office at nominal costs. Normally more than 5000 Urulis are offered in a year at this temple.